CAMINO DE LA PLATA I.
1st Stretch.
From SEVILLE to MERIDA.
Sunday 16/Nov/2014 to Sunday 30/Nov/2014.
The Camino de la Plata is an ancient pilgrimage path, used from the 9th Century on.1st Stretch.
From SEVILLE to MERIDA.
Sunday 16/Nov/2014 to Sunday 30/Nov/2014.
It leads from the Cathedral of Seville (South of Spain) to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela (North of Spain), mostly using an older Roman Road, the Via de la Plata (the 'Silver Route').
Itinerary :
Seville – Guillena – Castilblanco – Almaden de la Plata – El Real de la Jara – Monesterio – Fuente de Cantos – Zafra – Villafranca de los Barros – Torremejia – Merida.
CLICK HERE for my 3rd stretch on the Camino (Zamora to Santiago de Compostella, April 2016)
CLICK HERE for the 2nd stretch on the Camino (Merida to Zamora, November 2014)
This pilgrimage period covers the first part of the path, ten sections, from Seville to Merida, about 215km.
Weather forecast as on 13/11/2014...
Sunday 16/11/2014 - AIX EN PROVENCE to SEVILLE bus/plane/bus journey.
Ryanair flight leaving Marseille 14:10 and landing in Seville 16:20.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seville
|---| Toc Hostel Seville 16.20€/night.
http://tochostels.com/sevilla/the-hostel/
Seville, the 'Giralda' bell tower of the Cathedral, 105m, minaret of the former mosk
(picture I took March 2011).
The Giralda, today.
Monday 17/11/2014 - SEVILLE.
Pilgrimage preparation: Pilgrim Credential collected at hotel Simon (you can't get it from the Cathedral any more), and obtained the first stamp at the Cathedral.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seville_Cathedral
Diner: Taberna del Alabardero, Escuela Superior de Hosteleria de Sevilla (hotel school).
http://www.tabernadelalabardero.es/
|---| Toc Hostel Sevilla, 16.20€/night.
http://tochostels.com/sevilla/the-hostel/
Plaza de Espana, dating from the 1928 World Exhibition.
Christopher Columbus' tomb.
The 14th century Torre del Oro, the Golden Tower.
Callejon de la Inquisicion. Nice poem...
Tram stop for Sevilles' innovative "Supercapacitor tram"
(note: supercapacitors used to store electric charges, somewhat like batteries).
(note: supercapacitors used to store electric charges, somewhat like batteries).
Sufficient to recharge the capacitors when loading and unloading passengers.
No need for a suspended wire to continously supply the tram,
resulting in less infrastructure and a more aesthetic environment.
Tuesday 18/11/2014 - SEVILLE to GUILLENA hike.
(23km, 4h45 incl. picnic, 8:30-13:15).
map_1
Starting point of the camino,
in front of the cathedral.
8:30, in the starting block.
Yellow signs for the Camino to Santiago de Compostella,
easy to follow, even in town.
A 'monument' for the Camino.
The Camino in the suburbs, along the Guadalquivir.
easy to follow, even in town.
Traffic signs used when the Camino crosses or temporarily joins a major road.
The first coffee taken underway, in Santiponce.
Near to arrive at Guillena.
Lunch picnic.
At destination, Hostal Frances, Guillena.
http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guillena
Diner: Hostal Frances, Guillena, Menu del Peregrino, 7€.
|---| Hostal Frances, Guillena, 21€/night.
www.hostalbarfrances.com
Wednesday 19/11/2014 - GUILLENA to CASTILBLANCO DE LOS ARROYOS hike.
(20km, 43km cumulated, 4h40 including picnic, 9:20-14:00).
map 2
At the Guillena bakery.
A torro, not ready yet for the corrida.
Also a good place to picnic...
Lunch picnic with a very BAD brick-wine: "Don Simon".
Back on a traffic road, a stork decorated roundabout.
Storks nesting at each corner of the church tower.
San Benedito Abad, patron of Castilblanco, the exorcist saint.
The gelateria of Castelblanco, still closed at 17:20 for "siesta"...
http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castilblanco_de_los_Arroyos
Dîner: El Rincon del Beni, Menu del Peregrino, 7€.
|---| Casa Rural Salvadora, 12€, Castilblanco.
Thursday 20/11/2014 - CASTILBLANCO to ALMADEN DE LA PLATA hike.
(29km, 72km cumulated, 7h10 including breakfast and picnic 8:40-16:00 ).
map 3
Mushroom shaped bread in the Castilblanco bakery !
14 Endless kilometers along the road.
Fortunately with few traffic and in good company with fellow 'peregrina' Mar.
Fortunately with few traffic and in good company with fellow 'peregrina' Mar.
Midday, after 3 hours finally approaching the entrance of the nature parc.
The entrance gate of the Sierra Norte nature parc.
Cork oaks all around.
Found a nice place for picnic with a cool bath for my feet.
Lunch picnic, with the last brick of that bad Don Simon wine.
With fellow Mar and the horse of Filiberto (another pilgrim, Don Quixote's Sancho Panza).
Jamon !
A selfie taken by Filiberto's horse.
Reaching Almaden de la Plata.
Almaden de la Plata.
Almaden de la Plata.
A large choice of ham in the local supermarket.
Diner: Restaurante La Muralla, Almaden de la Plata, 10€50 Menu del Peregrino.|---| Casa Concha, Almeden de la Plata, 35€/night (much too expensive!).
Friday 21/11/2014 - ALMADEN DE LA PLATA to EL REAL DE LA JARA hike.
(16km, 88km cumulated, 4h including picnic, 9:00-13:00).
map 4
Picnic time.
The lunch picnic, discovering the Chirimola fruit (green, full of big black seeds).
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annona_cherimola
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annona_cherimola
Reaching El Real de la Jara.
El Real de la Jara
Ermita Nostra Sera de Los Remedios, El Real de la Jara.
An earlier mosk.
View from the hostel terrace onto El Real de la Jara's Castillo.
Diner: Meson La Cochera, El Real de la Jara, Menu del Peregrino, 7€.|---| Albergue Alojamento del Peregrino, El Real de la Jara.
Saturday 22/11/2014 - EL REAL DE LA JARA to MONESTERIO hike.
(22km, 110km cumulated, 5h05 including picnic, 9:00-14:05).
map 5
Castillo de las Torres, defending the Andalusia-Extramadura border.
Crossing the river of the Andalusia-Extramadura border
Castillo de las Torres.
Ermita de San Isidoro en Monesterio.
The Camino crosses the highway and a main road.
Today´s picnic, with a second Chirimola fruit.
The green bottle contains a dry white wine.
The green bottle contains a dry white wine.
A guy showed me proudly his 25 thousand chickens farm
with a chicken capital of 8k€, renewed every 7 weeks.
with a chicken capital of 8k€, renewed every 7 weeks.
Even with the door wide open, these chickens prefer to stay in the ¨factory room¨.
Alto de la Cruz, the highest point that day.
Monasterio is world famous for the black pork ham.
First contact with the Spanish builder crisis...
Unfinished houses.
Unfinished houses.
Diner: Los Templarios, Menu del Peregrino, 9€.
|---| Albergue Parroquial, Monesterio, 10€/night.
Sunday 23/11/2014 - MONESTERIO to FUENTE DE CANTOS hike.
(22km, 132km cumulated, 8:20-13:20, 5h including stops and picnic lunch).
map 6
A rainy day, especialy once arrived at the hostal.
The day started good with the usual pastoral life. Oak trees and black porcs.
Sky is becoming darker and darker.
Sometimes appears some blue color in the sky.
A nice place to picnic, right before the first rain drops.
Rain drops start falling from the sky.
With a third chirimola fruit, I start loving it.
Dry and warm in the comfortable hostel, while it's raining heavily outside.
Diner: at the hostel, Menu del Peregrino, 9€.With a third chirimola fruit, I start loving it.
|---| Albergue Turistico Via de la Plata, Fuente de Cantos, 12€/night.
Fuente de Cantos (pictured the next day morning).
Fuente de Cantos wall publicity.
Monday 24/11/2014 - FUENTE DE CANTOS to ZAFRA hike.
(25km, 157km cummulated, 9:00-15:00, 6h including stops and picnic lunch).
map 7
Leaving Fuente de Cantos.
Still a cloudy sky that morning.
Still a cloudy sky that morning.
Calzadilla de los Barros, reached after about one hour.
Calzadilla de los Barro, pharmacy
Sticky clay soil making it difficult to progress.
Reaching Puebla de Sancho Perez,
the second village underway, about one hour from Zafra.
Finally a (primitive) shop where I could find a KitKat chocolate bar.
The trail then follows the railway track and depots.
Zafra´s abandoned train station.
Zafra, the hostal, Convento San Francisco.
Storks nesting on the clock tower of the hostel chapel.
Zafra´s beautiful main market place, Plaza Grande.
Another view of Plaza Grande, while drinking two cervezzas (beers).
The second market place, Plaza Chica, also very nice.
Zafra's old measurement reference.
Diner: pasta cooking at the hostel kitchen, as almost all restaurants were closed.
|---| Convento San Francisco, Zafra, 12€/night.
Tuesday 25/11/2014 - ZAFRA to VILLAFRANCA DE LOS BARROS hike.
(17km, 174km cummulated, 4h including picnic, 9:00-13:00).
map 8
Still on the old Camino de Santiago, confirmed by the shells.
From time to time appears official, costly, incoherent way marking of the Camino...
Easier and safer to follow the painted yellow arrows,
maintained by volunteers of the Amigos de l camino de Santiago association.
Lunch picnic.
The hostal.
Dîner: La Pena. |---| Hostal Rural Casa Perin, Villafranca de los Barros, 18€/night.
http://www.casaruralperin.com/
Wednesday 26/11/2014 - VILLAFRANCA DE LOS BARROS to TORREMEJIA hike.
(25km, 199km cumulated, 6h including picnic).
map 9
A quick visit to the local supermarket (I got two kisses from the lady),
before leaving Villafranca,
before leaving Villafranca,
.
Another shell on this cross.
After a while starts a (boaring) straight stretch of 15km, along the old Roman road.
Another lunch picnic, with a red liquid in my water bottle.
The road goes on.
Entering Torremejia.
The hostal, in front of the church.
The hostal door.
|---| Albergue Turistico Palacio de Lastra, Torremejia, 12€/night.
Diner: Restaurant Avalon, Torremejia, Menu d'El dia, 8.5€.
Thursday 27/11/2014 - TORREMEJIA to MERIDA hike.
(15km, 214km cumulated, 3h05, 8:55-12:00).
map 10
Glad to wear Goretex boots.
The Puente Romano accross the Guadiana river, leading to Mérida.
The longest surviving bridge from Roman times : 720m with 60 spans.
Gift from the city of Rome to the city of Mérida.
Los Milagros aqueduct, with the stork nests on top.
The Roman circus.
Roman mosaic, Ben Hur style
Electric "Brasero" heating.
For cold Spanish days, a coal-heated or electric "Brasero" is put under a table.
A blanket covers the table, acting as a tent to hold the heat.
Guests sitting around the table cover their legs and feet with the blanket to keep warm.
A blanket covers the table, acting as a tent to hold the heat.
Guests sitting around the table cover their legs and feet with the blanket to keep warm.
Merida credential stamp.
Friday 28/11/2014 - MERIDA.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merida,_Spain
Visit of the Roman buildings, Unesco World Heritage site), the aqueduct, the bridge, the temple, the theatre, the colloseum, ...
The Parador hotel.
The stork, guest of the Parador hotel.
Diana's temple.
The stage of the Roman theatre.
The Roman Bridge.
Crazy people in the Roman arena.
The Museum of Roman Art.
The canon balls of the Muslim Alcazaba citadel are really heavy !
Saturday 29/11/2014 - MERIDA to MADRID train journey.
Train Merida 9:28 - 13:53 Madrid, 37€.
Diner: Museo del Jamon, Madrid.
|---| Hostal Residencia Fernandez, Madrid, 28.50€/night.
http://www.hostalfernandez.com/index.htm
Madrid (an older picture, dating from December 2011)
Sunday 30/11/2014 - MADRID to AIX-EN-PROVENCE metro/plane/bus journey.
Ryanair flight Madrid 10:05 - 12:00 Marseille Airport - 13:30 Home.
|---| Home.
